Pre-Travel

Wenesday 8 October

The day before I set off. I have now read much about Gujarat since deciding to visit but I must remember what might be the few perceptions and facts about the place that may be known to average European. Here are a few that spring to mind:

1) Birthplace of Gandhi. By chance, I will be staying in a hotel which is opposite the Sabarmati Ashram in Ahmedabad. [ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sabarmati_Ashram] It was here that Gandhi formed a tertiary school that mainly focused on manual labour, agriculture, and literacy to advance his efforts for nation's self-sufficiency. It was also from here on the 12 March 1930 that Gandhi marched towards Dandi, 241 miles from the Ashram with 78 companions in protest of the British Salt Law, which taxed Indian salt in an effort to promote sales of British salt in India.
It is because of the Gandhian heritage that Gujarat is a) almost exclusively vegetarian and b) dry (in the non-alcoholic sense).
Today, Gandhi's reputation is mixed and I will be interested to find out how his reputation has survived in his home State.

2) In 2001, the city of Bhuj was the epicentre of a devastating earthquake which killed over 20,000. 90% of the buildings in Bhuj were destroyed. I am going to be visiting Bhuj and looking forward to seeing the intricate textiles and embroidery for which it is renowned.

3) In 2002, there was extreme religious violence in Ahmedabad. After Hindus died on a train which was set alight by Muslims, retribution in the city led to widespread arson in Muslim districts and many more deaths. The city is still questioning how it happened. The Chief Minister, Nahendru Modu, who belongs to the Hindu Nationalist BJP (Indian people's Party) has been implicated in allowing/encouraging the violent response and the non-involvement of the city's police force. I will be in Ahmedabad for a week and hope to get a feeling of what level of tension remains, how segregated are the two communities and, I hope, what progress is being made to ensure there is no repeat of the 2002 tragedy.

4) Recently Gujarat was in the news because about 120 people died after drinking illegal liquor contaminated with ethanol. That caused renewed call for the alcohol ban to be relaxed, not only because of illegal and dangerous brewing but because it is said to discourage tourism.

5) Gujarat is nevertheless a very successful state in economic terms (Ahmedabad used to be called the Manchester of India) and contributes 39% of India's industrial output but also has significant agricultural production esp. cotton and groundnuts as well as being the 'dairy of india' with milk production organised on a cooperative basis with 1 million members! Once I get out of the city I hope to see some rural production at close quarters. The FairTrade movement started with Gujarati produce and now supplies the Fairtrade cotton range.

6) Misc facts about Gujarat: very approximately Gujarat is the same area as mainland UK and has a similar population. 89% are Hindu, 9% Muslim and with a smattering of Jains, Sikhs and Christians - no mention of aethiests! Gujarati is spoken almost universally, followed by Hindi, Urdu and English. Around 3500 festivals are celebrated in Gujarat - the state is known as the land of fairs and festivals. I'm going to miss most of them but will be there for Diwali. Although well-known here in UK, Diwali is only a one day festival, mainly comprising letting off firecrackers so sounds like our Guy Fawkes. I like the sound of the kite festival better but that's in January.
Well, I wonder what will stand out at the end of the holiday. I hope I will be able to reflect and report back to this blog but before then I will be posting my impressions and experiences as I go along.